Tall Ship Elissa

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This afternoon, I had the pleasure of escorting my children and grandchildren over to Pier 22 to tour the Texas Seaport Museum and see its star attraction, the tall ship Elissa, a three-mast barque and one of the oldest ships sailing today.

Andrew, age 8

Andrew, age 8

Alexandra, age 10

Alexandra, age 10

As eager as we were to see all the offerings of the museum, we were - admittedly - distracted by the gift shop right inside the entrance. As gift shops go, this one rates high! We saw lot of unique souvenirs for the kids (of all ages), but also many high-end, maritime-related books and maps, etc. We all found things we wanted to purchase and take home, and on our way out today, we stopped back in to present the plastic.

Once inside the museum, we took a self-guided tour and watched an engaging 20-minute video documentary that tells the story of Elissa’s rescue from the scrap yard and her detailed restoration.

We learned Elissa started out as a British cargo ship, taking several voyages to smaller ports in the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico, and she twice loaded cotton at Galveston. This local connection prompted the Galveston Historical Foundation to purchase the ship in 1982 and undertake a dramatic restoration.

The Texas Seaport Museum also showcases the legacy of maritime commerce and immigration. One of its popular attractions is its database exhibit, where visitors can search the names of more than 133,000 immigrants who entered the country through Galveston, once known as the Ellis Island of the West.

In this area of the museum, one wall featured a mural that depicted 19th century Galveston. And, placed nearly were a variety of coats and hats of the same vintage for visitors to put on and pose for the cameras. This offering proved to be a hit with my crew. Before we left, most of us had “stepped back in time” for fun. (Included here are photos I took of m own beloved grandkids, Alexandra and Andrew.)

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Elissa’s Story
Elissa was built in Aberdeen, Scotland as a merchant vessel, named for the niece of Henry Fowler Watt, her first owner. She was fist launched on October 27, 1877.

Elissa also sailed under Norwegian and Swedish flags. In 1918, she was converted into a two-masted brigantine, and an engine was installed. She was sold to Finland in 1930 and reconverted into a schooner. In 1959, she was sold to Greece, and successively sailed under the names Christophoros, in 1967 as Achaeos, and in 1969 as Pioneer.

In 1970, she was rescued from destruction in Piraeus after being purchased for the San Francisco Maritime Museum. However, she languished in a salvage yard in Piraeus until she was purchased for $40,000, in 1975, by the Galveston Historical Foundation. In 1979, after a year in Greece having repairs done to her hull, Elissa was first towed to Gibraltar. There, she was prepared for an ocean tow by Captain Jim Currie of the New Orleans surveyors J.K. Tynan International. The restoration process continued until she was ready for tow on June 7, 1979.

Elissa has an iron hull, and the pin rail and bright work is made of teak. Her masts are Douglas fir from Oregon, and her 19 sails were made in Maine. She has survived numerous modifications, including installation of an engine, and the incremental removal of all her rigging and masts.

Elissa made her first voyage as a restored sailing ship in 1985, traveling to Corpus Christi, Texas. A year later, she sailed to New York City to take part in the Statue of Liberty’s centennial celebrations.

In July 2011, the U.S. Coast Guard declared Elissa  "not seaworthy." An inspection revealed a corroded hull.

After getting the bad news, the Texas Seaport Museum raised the $3 million needed for hull replacement and other long-overdue maintenance projects. All was finished in January 2013, and Elissa returned to sailing once again in March 2014.

Star Drug Store

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Dropping in at the historic Star Drug Store for a hearty breakfast or, at mid-day, for a juicy burger and chocolate malt is one of my favorite things to do in Galveston. The Star Drug Store, with its old-fashioned soda fountain, stirs early 20th century nostalgia like no place else on the island.

Recognized as the oldest drug store in Texas, the original structure, located at 510 23rd Street, was built in 1886. It was constructed in wood but this changed when Charles J. Michaelis, a local druggist, bought the building in 1906. Michaelis hired contractor J.W. Zempter to convert the building to brick. This $15,000 renovation was completed in 1909.

By 1915, the Star Drug Store was fully operational, and a horseshoe shaped soda fountain counter was added to the pharmacy.

George Clampitt and Grady Dickinson purchased the store in the early 1920s nd operated the store until 1982. They maintained the integrity of the drug store, as well as altered history when the Star became the first desegregated lunch counter in Galveston.

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The ownership of the Star Drug Store changed hands several times before a severe fire on Friday, March 13, 1998, closed the store until November 2001, when the Tilts family purchased and began restorations to the building.

This five-year project included rebuilding and restoring the facade, two apartments upstairs, the historical Coca-Cola neon porcelain sign and the drug store. The original horseshoe counter, complete with the embedded red tile star in its prominent facade, still reigns as the Star Drug Store's most recognized emblem.

On September 12, 2008, Galveston was hit hard by Hurricane Ike. The Star Drug Store was flooded with more than six and half feet of water, damaging most of the downstairs furniture, equipment and retail items. With the dedication and help of family, friends and co-workers, The Star Drug Store reopened three months later on December 17, to once again serve its beloved patrons.

Original soda fountain still takes centerstage at the Star Drug Store in Galveston.

Original soda fountain still takes centerstage at the Star Drug Store in Galveston.

1900 Storm Statue

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Today, September 8, is the anniversary of the Great Storm of 1900 -the perfect day to re-visit the 1900 Great Storm Statue on The Seawall.

The 1900 Storm Memorial Statue was created by Galveston sculptor David W. Moore in memory of the more than 6000 men, women and children who died in the Great Storm of 1900.

The bronze statue, 10 feet in height, was installed at 4800 Seawall Boulevard on the storm’s 100th anniversary in 2000.

On any given day, those walking along The Seawall will stop to take a closer look at this statue and, perhaps, to offer a silent prayer for the thousands who lost their lives on that fateful night in 1900. At times, flowers are left at the base of the statue. When I see them there, I always wonder if they were left by descendants of those who died in the storm or by people, like me, who always become incredibly mournful when thinking about the many, many victims.

Storm of 1900
The Category 4 hurricane is recorded as the deadliest natural disaster the history of the United States.

The hurricane came ashore on Galveston Island on September 8, 1900 with 134 mile-per-hour winds and 15-feet storm surges. In addition to the enormous loss of life, it leveled took the 7,000 buildings and left 10,000 people homeless.

The disaster ended the Golden Era of Galveston. Potential investors in the city, so alarmed by the ravages of the hurricane, turned to Houston for new opportunities. .

The Turquoise Table

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Shortly before I purchased The Bungalow, I heard about the book, The Turquoise Table, by Kristin Schell. It’s about how Kristin, on a mission “to love her neighbors,” managed to create a stronger sense of community with her friends, family and, yes, even strangers.

She started by taking an ordinary picnic table, painting it turquoise and setting it outside in her front yard. Then, she would go outside in the mornings, with coffee mug in hand, and invite others to join her there. As she has said, “to hang out and do life together.”

Kristin’s intentions inspired me to buy the book. And, once I had the hardback in my hand, I didn’t put it down until I had finished reading each and every word.

I loved The Turquoise Table, and I shared Kristin’s desire to bond with those around her in new and more meaningful ways. In its own way, the book explains why I so wanted to spend part of my life in Galveston, in a neighborhood built in the 1920s, when big front porches with swings encouraged neighbors to stop by and sit a spell.

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Today, a turquoise table sits in the back yard of The Bungalow. It was the first thing I bought for the house! I found it at Tuesday Morning, and it had already been painted turquoise. I bought it on the spot and paid someone to deliver to my home in Houston. Then, it sat in my garage for nearly three months. Later, i paid someone else to deliver it to The Bungalow - right after the new cedar fence was installed. Unlike Kristin, it never dawned on me (until later) that I too could have bought an ordinary picnic table right here in Galveston and painted it myself …and saved myself a lot of hassle and delivery fees!

Oh well…Like Kristin, I’ve loved sharing my turquoise table with others. When friends or vacation renters stay at The Bungalow, they always comment on the turquoise table - and on the copy of The Turquoise Table I leave out in plain view for all to see. Many have taken photos of themselves sitting at my table and forwarded them on to me. I can’t tell you how much I really love that!

Bishop's Palace

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Bishop's Palace, also known as Gresham's Castle, is an ornate 19,082-square foot Victorian, located on Broadway Boulevard and 14th Street in the East End Historic District of Galveston.

The house was built between 1887 and 1893 by Galveston architect Nichols J. Clayton for lawyer and politician Walter Gresham, his wife Josephine, and their nine children.

The house was constructed in stone and made it sturdy enough to withstand the Great Storm of 1900. During the hurricane, the Greshams welcomed hundreds of survivors into their home.

Bishop's Palace has four floors. The raised basement which once housed the kitchen and servant's areas now contains a gift shop.

The home is estimated to have cost $250,000 at the time. It is estimated value today sits at over $5.5 million.

In 1923 the Roman Catholic Diocese of Galveston purchased the house and, situated across the street from the Sacred Heart Church, it served as the residence for Bishop Christopher E. Byrne. After the diocesan offices were moved to Houston, the diocese opened the mansion to the public.

In 1963, with proceeds from tours used to help fund the Newman Center, operating in the basement, serving Catholic students at the nearby University of Texas Medical Branch.

Today, the house is owned by the Galveston Historical Foundation and self-guided tours are available daily. A portion of each admission supports the preservation and restoration of the property.

Bishop’s Palace is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is a must-see for visitors to the island.